A cool breeze brushes my skin as I move through poses on the lawn at The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, on the island of Hawai‘i’s Kohala Coast. Following my yoga teacher Molly’s gentle cues, I twist to my left, glancing over my shoulder to see a white-sand beach meeting turquoise waters and an ancient volcano shrouded in cloud in the distance.
Throughout the hour-long class, I fix my gaze on a nearby palm tree to steady my balance, learn to incorporate fluid hula-inspired movements and focus on hā – the Hawaiian concept of breath, the spiritual essence of life. Toward the end, Molly encourages us to rise and “stand like a goddess”.
My mind drifts back to the previous day’s tour, when our guide Matteo from Hawai‘i Forest & Trail introduced us to Pele, the fiery Hawaiian goddess of fire, lightning, wind and volcanoes, known as the creator of the islands.
He revealed Pele resides in the Halema‘uma‘u Crater at Kīlauea, one of five volcanoes on the island – four of which are considered active.
As we travelled across charred landscapes, Matteo explained that the island of Hawai‘i is both the biggest and the newest in the archipelago, which comprises more than 100 islands, atolls and islets stretching across 2,400 kilometres.
While some of the world’s most famous volcanoes – such as Mt Fuji and Mt Vesuvius – are stratovolcanoes, the steep, mountain-like form most people picture, those on the island of Hawai‘i are shield volcanoes, with gentler slopes resembling a warrior’s shield laid flat.
Kīlauea’s most recent eruption began in late 2024, with lava fountains shooting up to 400 metres into the air every few weeks, sometimes for around 12 hours at a time.
We are a few days too late – or perhaps a few days too early – to witness the spectacle. But we see gas, steam and water vapour rising from the vent in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park before visiting Steaming Bluff, where hot steam warms my skin. We walk through Nāhuku Lava Tube, formed by molten lava that drained away, leaving behind an empty cave once the flow cooled. Over the centuries, these tubes have served as burial sites, storage spaces, shelters and hiding places during battles.
Driving through lava fields along Chain of Craters Road, roadside signs mark eruptions from various decades. Matteo stops to show us droplet-shaped lava known as Pele’s tears and long, delicate strands that glisten in the sunlight, called Pele’s hair.
On the way back to the resort, we visit Rainbow Falls near Hilo, where waters fed by two volcanoes converge in a spectacular cascade.
The island of Hawai‘i’s rich volcanic soil also creates exceptional agricultural conditions, producing high-quality, flavourful ingredients that draw top chefs to its shores.
That evening, back at the resort, we dined at Meridia, helmed by former Nobu chef Sotirios Kontos.
The Athens-born chef was working at a restaurant on Mykonos when Nobu co-owner Robert De Niro dined there and promptly offered him a job in New York.
After 17 years in the big city, Kontos decided it was time for a change, moving to Hawai‘i last year to take on the role of chef de cuisine at the Mediterranean-inspired restaurant.
He relishes using vegetables grown in the on-site garden in dishes such as the Greek Goddess Salad, alongside fresh seafood such as crudo, grilled octopus and ‘ahi delivered that day by local fishermen. And the view isn’t bad either.
Travel tip
Before visiting island of Hawai‘i take the Pono Pledge – a set of voluntary, environmentally conscious and culturally respectful promises for visitors and residents. ponopledge.com
Where to stay on island of Hawai‘i
The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort
Wake up to a view of the ocean from one of the 249 guest rooms and suites at this expansive resort. Guests can enjoy two pools – a family pool and an adults-only infinity pool – along with a full wellness centre featuring fitness and spa services. Dining options include Meridia, poolside eatery Naupaka Beach Grill and Piko Coffee + Bar. Guests can also take part in cultural activities such as outrigger canoeing, lei-making and joining a traditional sunrise Hawaiian chant ritual led by a Native practitioner on the beach.
Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Autograph Collection
The first resort on island of Hawai‘i, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel unveiled a US$180 million refurbishment in February. The oceanfront resort on Kauna‘oa Bay offers 252 guest rooms and suites with a private lanai (balcony) and sweeping views of the beach or golf course. It has several restaurants – including upscale Manta, the beachside Hau Tree and casual Copper Bar – as well as a full-service spa, state-of-the-art gym, adults-only infinity pool, a family pool, a championship golf course and tennis/pickleball courts.
Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa
With three pools, direct access to ‘Anaeho‘omalu Bay (nicknamed “A-Bay”) beach, and three nine-hole golf courses amid lush grounds, this resort on the Kohala Coast makes an excellent base to explore the island. Guests can enjoy a full-service Mandara Spa, a gym, tennis courts and cultural activities. Dining highlights include the ocean view Hawai‘i Calls Restaurant, the casual Aka‘ula Lanai Coffee Shop and a traditional Sunset Lū‘au experience.
The writer was a guest of Hawaiian Airlines and Hawai‘i Tourism Oceania.
